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Where the Medina meets the Atlantic – Essaouira & Sidi Kaouki

By Karolina Biczek on 31st May, 2024

How should you make the most of your time in Essaouira and the surrounding area?

To truly immerse yourself in the atmosphere of Essaouira, I encourage you to read this blog while listening to music by the 8-piece group ‘Essaouira Ganga Fusion. Once you’ve finished tapping your toes, sit back and let your mind wander, imagining the charming corners of Essaouira and its surroundings.

Essaouira is one of the most popular cities in Morocco, presenting a fusion of past and present.

Located on the Atlantic coast, it boasts a beautiful Medina (old town), formerly known as Mogador, which is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

It is a fantastic example of a fortified town (the earlier name of Mogador derives from the word Migdol, meaning a small fort) and Essaouira is dated to the mid-eighteenth century.

This is one of those coastal cities where the lively atmosphere seamlessly blends with history, with traditional music but modern flair. 

Essaouira was first famous thanks to the international trading port.  It then gained an ever more multicultural character through the coexistence of diverse ethnic and religious groups. The town quickly became a favourite amongst artists, eventually becoming more well known to tourists.

It is better to stay in the city or on the outskirts of Essaouira in Sidi Kaouki?

Is it more convenient to spend time gazing at the starry sky on a terrace, away from the hustle and bustle of the city, near the ocean, or close to the historical sites, with access to the restaurants in the Medina of Essaouira?

It all depends on your preference – what do you want from your time on the Moroccan coast?

Essaouira is a city of over 70,000 inhabitants, but is definitely quieter than the bustling Marrakech. In this wonderful seaside town, you will experience more of the slow-life spirit, strolling through the cosy streets of the medina, the Jewish quarter, visiting the iconic port, and spending time on the beach. All the attractions can actually be seen in one day, but to truly get inspired by Essaouira, to experience the local atmosphere, it is worth spending a bit more time there.

Sidi Kaouki

In contrast, Sidi Kaouki is a small town located 25 km south of Essaouira and, with a long sweeping beach, plenty of cafes, and chilled out vibe, it is an ideal place to relax and unwind. 

Sidi Kaouki is a seriously popular surf and windsurfing destination, well known in Morocco – so if you’re in a duo where one wants to enjoy a hammam while the other wants to do something a bit more adventurous, then it’s pretty much perfect. It is also a fantastic spot for kitesurfing, with reliable breezes and excellent waves.

In the small town, you can enjoy quad biking on the beach, door-to-door camel riding, and long walks on the sandy beach watching the horses gallop by – or simply lie back and watch the birds play in the wind, and the waves break onto the beach.

If you are still unsure where to stay, remember every Fleewinter trip is tailor-made to suit your needs and requirements. 

Why not spend 2 days on the outskirts of Essaouira and 2 days (or more) in the city centre? 

Or perhaps absolutely no days in Essaouira and instead stay in Sidi Kaouki and take a taxi in and out of town as you please!  Taxi fares aren’t extortionate, so a day of sightseeing and shopping won’t set you back.

What to do in Essaouira?

Spend time in the Medina

The medina is a living masterpiece on display for all to appreciate.

Narrow, charming alleys, historic, whitewashed buildings, artisan shops, and colourful cafes with delicious food – these are all the elements that make up Essaouira.  It’s a great place for buying souvenirs or unique pieces for your home, such as colourful rugs. You don’t need a map to explore the Medina of Essaouira, as the old town is definitely easier to navigate than the Medinas of Fez or Marrakech.  

Even if you get lost (which we actually recommend!  You’ll see so much more than if you follow directions), you’ll easily find your way back to your riad – and the super friendly locals will help, too. It is however worth mentioning that the two main streets in the Medina are Avenue Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah and Avenue Mohamed Zerktouni.

Visit the Fish Market

Don’t forget your camera, as the harbour is one of the most picturesque spots in Essaouira. It is worth visiting in the morning to observe the fishermen with giant nets. However, at every time of the day, the harbour remains iconic thanks to the dozens of small blue boats, salty smell and the sound of seagulls.  If you’re looking for the postcard picture, it’s here.

From the port, there’s an incredible view of the city’s defensive walls.  These sandy coloured fortifications are seriously impressive, holding back the might of the ocean when the wind whips up the Atlantic.  Definitely plan at least one evening to sit on a terrace and watch the sun set over the ocean.

Essaouira is also well known as a foodie destination and in the harbour, there are a few places where you can enjoy culinary delights such as seafood and freshly caught fish. In Essouira’s restaurants, I recommend trying the fish tagine or fish pastilla.

 

Relax on the beaches of Sidi Kaouki or Essaouira

Essaouira boasts beaches both within the city and in the surrounding area, these are well known as some of the best beaches in Morocco,  so if you are a beach lover you should not miss this location!

Just outside the Medina (Old Town) is the main Essaouira sandy beach, which is vast. Are you worried about the hot temperatures in the summer months? You should know that Essaouira isn’t called the “windy city” for nothing. The fresh breeze constantly blows, pleasantly cooling the temperature. In June, sometimes it is worth wearing a jacket in the evening as it can get a bit chilly. 

Even if you are not a huge fan of sunbathing, a real highlight is a 5-kilometer beach promenade. Tourists and locals love to stroll with the magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean and observe the lively beach scene. Many kitesurfers and windsurfers showcase their skills as Essaouira is an ideal place for water sports enthusiasts – a sunhat and factor 50 are some of the best accessories here.

If you prefer to stay outside the city, we strongly recommend the beach located in the Sidi Kaouki (25 minutes from Essaouira). Sidi Kaouki is well known as a Berber village of fishermen, farmers and argan producers with a long, sweeping beach and good conditions for surfing and windsurfing. 

Sidi Kaouki was named one of the best Tourism Villages of the World in 2021 by (UNWTO) – the United Nations World Tourism Organization. It may look like a sleepy village but you will find a range of activities there. Besides water sports, you can enjoy quad biking on the beach, camel rides, jogging, and horseback riding. You can relax in the hammam and in the evening admire the incredibly starry sky while listening to the sound of the ocean.

Whether in the city or on the outskirts, explore the charms of these two nearby beaches.

The main square – Moulay Hassan

Moulay Hassan Square is situated between the harbour and the main entrance to the Medina, so you can’t miss it. Sit in one of the many restaurants and coffee shops facing the ocean, and watch the locals and tourists enjoy Essaouira equally.  

This square is the central location for the most important local events, including the Gnaoua Music Festival, which takes place each year in June. Since 1998, internationally renowned musicians gather in Essaouira to play Gnawa music. To immerse yourself in the world of Gnawa music, I recommend listening Gnawa Music.

The festival usually takes place at the end of June and lasts for 3 days. It’s an extraordinary musical celebration, with stages set up in various parts of the city, including the main square. The city will be bustling, so it’s important to remember that most places in riads need to be booked in advance. During this period, the minimum stay in most riads is 3 nights – just a heads up.

The planning will pay off though.  The atmosphere is unforgettable, with music, costumes, and a riot of colours – you’ll see a new side of this city during this time.

In the late 60 & 70s Essaouira became a magnet for well-known musicians like Cat Stevens or Jimi Hendrix!!! 

The tower of  Borj Bab Marrakech

This tower represents the historical heritage of the city. An imposing defensive tower, painted in dark red, it is located next to the Bab Marrakesh gate. Sultan Moulay Abderrahman Ben Hicham built it in 1846 to protect the medina from attacks from the east and southeast, and gunpowder was stored inside its fortification. After the French occupation, the tower became a military barrack. Nowadays, the tower serves as a cultural space frequently used by Moroccan and foreign artists to exhibit their works.

Sqala du Port and Sqala de la Kasbah 

A significant part of the Medina, which faces the ocean, is surrounded by defensive walls. These walls, built as a shield against invasions and wild ocean waves, have proven their effectiveness – they stand unshaken until this day. The defensive walls of Essaouira bear witness to its tumultuous history, lending the city an impressive atmosphere.  This really is where the medina meets the Atlantic, connecting Essaouira and Sidi Kaouki to the vast ocean.

The Sqala du Port is an artillery platform constructed in the 18th century, similar to Bab el-Marsa. It formerly served as one of the primary fortifications of Essaouira, with its primary function being the defence of the port. It occupies the site where the now-vanished castle once stood, which presumably provided materials for the construction of the Sqala. The Scala du Port extends from Bab el-Marsa to Borj el-Barmil, the fort at its end.

The fortification provides an excellent vantage point overlooking the town and the port. Visitors have the option to ascend the tower for panoramic views or peep through a charming aperture in the wall. You will be able to capture picturesque photos through the hole in the wall. GPS coordinates: (31.510192, -9.773820).

The Sqala de la Kasbah is the best place to admire the coastline and sunsets, and the surroundings and lives of the locals. The people of Essaouira enjoy spending time here, especially in the evenings, and it serves as a meeting place for friends and family.

 

The Skala de Kasbah

This two-level artillery platform serves as a defensive structure for Essaouira. The ground floor is dedicated to storage rooms, while the first floor houses a historical artillery battery featuring cannons from Spain, the Netherlands, and Portugal.

Visit the impressive ramparts as the sturdy walls made of local stone.  They are sea-facing and have withstood the test of time – it’s a particular feeling standing behind them knowing that the Atlantic Ocean is on the other side, and this man-made structure is protecting the city from the might of the sea, as well as fortifying the city against attack.

Highlight:

Stroll along the wall, and from a particular vantage point, you’ll catch sight of Mogador Island. This piece of land, encircled by water, was historically utilised for the production of a distinct dye by Phoenicians and in Roman times. That is why nowadays the Island is called “The Purple Island”.

 Fans of the Game of Thrones series will be impressed by visiting the impressive defensive walls of Essaouira, where several scenes from Season III were filmed. 

The initial scene from the film “Othello” from 1952, directed by Orson Welles, was also shot on these walls.

The Jewish Quarter and cemetery

Essaouira is also a hidden Jewish gem. Established by its residents in 1764, The Mellah of Essaouira is the city’s Jewish quarter, which became a symbol of the plurality of Moroccan culture. Nowadays though it is one of the poorest and most marginalised neighbourhoods in the Medina (Old Town). Enjoy watching The Untold Stories of the Jewish  Quarter of Essaouira or discovering it yourself with our local guide.

In Essaouira, you’ll find a hybrid of Art Deco and Moorish architecture with residential buildings featuring a Star of David carved into the facade. Among others, it is worth visiting the synagogue of Slat Lkahal which has been restored and in 2017 had its second inauguration. Unfortunately, the first site related to Jewish heritage has been demolished. It was a Mahia distillery as they were making a liqueur from figs of dates, which is a typical product of Moroccan Jews.

Just outside of the walls of Jewish Quarter, there are two Jewish cemeteries. The older cemetery, facing the Atlantic coast, was used until the 18th century. Due to the growing Jewish population, a second cemetery was established. The Jewish community was well-known for its carpentry workshop, handicrafts, and jewelry. During your stay in Essaouira, visit Place Taraa, a small square with cafes and restaurants with a quietly historical background.

If Moroccan history is up your street, check our our blog on


Written by Karolina Biczek

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